All Saints Autumn/ Winter 2012
All saints Autumn 2012 collection creates dark, gloomy mood with a simple yet modern twist that consists of attitude and confidence. Through using bold lines and resistant wools to apply a strong structure and dramatic shape to the garments. Fabrics such as wool, bridle leathers, laser-cut camel hair, cashmere, luxe shearlings, silks and cotton are used to imply texture and detailing to the surface of the garments.
This 100% sheer silk dress has been heavily embellished with metal, wood and sequins to create a playful, fun, textured surface pattern. Which creates a dramatic effected when worn due to the reflect of light. A pattern has been created using traditional techniques helping to reflected the gothic, dark yet modern mood that All Saints is well known for. This is something I am extremely interested in bringing through into my own collection. particularly the use of embellishment, creating a modern, dramatic collection through using traditional techniques.
Focusing on texture and surface pattern this garment uses metallic rusted colour tones to add an aged look to the modern garment shape. The garment shape itself uses pleats to capture a flared effected, once again implying a dramatic statement. I particularly like how simple the dress is in comparison to the above yet still capture the same dark, gothic mood. The contrasting colour tones reflect a medieval era yet the actual garment silhouette itself is a classic signature shape often seen in the high street. It would be interesting to see how this could be interrupted through textile techniques such as foiling.
This single breasted blazer jacket uses digital printing to create a vintage inspired surface print, that contrasts in colour and layered texture. Building up a scattered repeated pattern. The pattern itself has no sense of direction yet it is the blazer that forms a flow in the print through tailoring implying a structured fit. The curved hems and v neck collar reflect a feminine shape however the over all blazer is dramatic and strong, it expresses individuality. Taking inspiration from this I particularly like the surface print and how it uses small repeat pattern to capture texture and contrast. This could be applied through building up layers though contrasting techniques as well as colour and print.
Once again small repeat pattern has been used to create a simple, symmetrical surface pattern that contrasts in colour building up texture. This could be created through simple mark making and various drawing techniques. The colours themselves almost look burnt out as the contrast is that strong. Bleaching or discharging the print could be a successful way of capturing this. The garment shape itself is a simple silhouette, although I find the print successful the garment shape itself lacks interest it is to basic and safe. Instead it would be interesting to distort the pattern to using couture techniques such as pleating or draping.
Leather is a material which I am looking to develop further through out my final collection, as it is a classic material used through out both summer and winter. The classic biker jacket uses bound seams, panels, chunky zips, quilting, top stitching, a stand up collar and elbow patches to capture a rock chic vibe. fastenings and panels have been used to add a sharp definition and decorative detailing instead of heavy print. Using constructive techniques and couture detailing is something I am interested in introducing into my own collection in order to combined textiles and construction, building pattern and texture through garment silhouettes and features.
Using panels and curved darts this dress captures a classic feminine silhouette. Instead of using textile techniques or print, construction has been used to capture a defined shape and structure. Representing a armor shape through the use of curved darts the change in material highlights this. This dress captures an hour glass shape coming at the waist through using a waist band and flaring out. Construction will play a big part in my collection as through similar methods, using curved darts and panels to create shape and structure.
Referring back to print and surface pattern this simple jersey dress focuses on print and colour, using contrasting burnt out colour tones such as white, orange, black and purple to indicate the movement of the dress. Curving around the body and highlighting the models womanly figure when worn. I Particularly like the blend and mixture of overlaid colours and would be interested in experimenting with this through my own collection using dip dying and shibori to capture a blended soft repeat patterns. These techniques will allow me to rework into the pattern through over dying.
This garment uses drapes to capture a statement dress. Gathering panels to create texture and volume. The dress itself is designed to curved around the figure giving a in proportion shape. The bodice of the dress captures a pattern through the direction of the rushing of the fabric, and the draped hem creates a soft, effortless finish to the garment. This has made me think about how different materials will create different moods and effects. Therefore when experimenting with the texture and feel of fabric I need to make sure they reflect the mood I am hoping to create.
