Outfit seven
development of surface texture and patter, discharged and foiled cashmere
centre back concealed zip
Vanners silk and lurex binding on hem and waist band.
velvet Devore, discharge and foiled top
Bag
I really enjoyed making this bag, my first every.
Invecting colour into the dark colour pallete.
Continuing with the use of heavy overworked, distress surfaces, this garment explores texture through various repeat patterns juxtaposed with sketched prints and mark makings collages. Using a dark, gloomy colour palette to balance of the collection, focusing on Queen Elizabeths dark and sinister period of war and betrayal. The outfit allows me the freedom to overwork and distress the surface texture through various hand textile processes such as Devore, discharge and foiling. Representing the dilapidated period in Queen elizabeths life through the reflection and reaction of materials on a controlled level.
Developing previous garment shapes from the pre existing collection a oversized draped, slit neck top is contrasted with a pair of skinny cashmere cigarette trousers.
The top itself has been heavily processed working on the back and front of the fabric individually in order to break up areas of the print , creating a three dimensional texture that overlaps one another. Using this method of production is unpredictable and innovative. i partially like how each processes will turn out differently and create a different effect when layered a certain way. Once Devore and discharging the top i decided to add further texture through introducing a sketched foiled print, contrasting the stripped and dilapidated prints already used. The method of foiling was first unsuccessful as the clean cut, shiny finish was to harsh and flat against the dilapidated background. Therefore in order to wear down the foiled section I tried a various experiments such as washing the foil. This did not work as the foil tended to peel away. I also experimented with scrapping the surface of the foil, scratching and taking off sections of the shine. This allowed the foil to blend into the background, creating a busy, textured surface pattern that flowed in and out of one another.
Using the manipulation method the trousers where altered though cutting up the knee line, hip line and centre, pulling in the panels to create a more fitted garment shape. A useful technique which helped me successfully capture the correct silhouette. The trousers themselves are made from distressed cashmere, which has been discharged and foiled to create a leather, wet look effect. These have been really successful using overworked and layered texture. Challenging the consumer to work out what that fabric actually is. Once again taking a luxurious fabric and distressing and turning it into something that raises the question what is it made from and how has it be done. To finish of the trousers a gold silk and lurex weaved trim has been add as a binding to the waist and hem, introducing a hit on colour and sparkly.
As the trousers have been constructed from cashmere the processes of discharging was particularly difficult, as the paste would lye on the surface of the fabric. In order to get the paste to stick I had to re discharge the cashmere a couple of times, using a wider exposed screen and pulling the paste through evenly. The felted material was also fairly difficult to hand wash, as it became extremely heavy which caused difficulty in scrubbing and removing the paste. To even out the weight and professionally remove the paste sections of the fabric had to be dried and washed separately. This was fairly time consuming.
In order to introduce a section of colour and a contrast to the distressed, dark fabrics. A slouched pink leather bag was added. This made the over all outfit modern and exciting, as well as highlight the difference in texture and pattern. Creating a bag for the first time was exciting and pushed my construction skills further. When constructing the bag I found that due to the weight and texture, the leather would often slip and stretch. This is visible in some areas where unpicking has been done, leaving marks. This also caused difficulty when adding a top stitching detail, due to the fabric being thick and slippery areas of the top stitching is not as accurate as Id like it to be. To resolve this problems on areas such as the handles glue and masking tape have been used to hold down the leather. Followed by using a teflon foot and leather needle, taking extra care.
I think this outfit captures the atmosphere and image of Queen elizabeth in her darker period, through using decorative and luxurious fabrics in a dilapidated and worn way. As well as showing me skills as a designer through creating surface texture with out over working colour.
