Saturday, 8 June 2013

Outfit six


Stitch and Shibori exploring small repeat detail pattern of luxurious fabric 


Using tucks to create an interesting silhouette 






Mastering the process of shibori this garment explores shibori with stitch to create a textured surface pattern, through detailed geometric patterns and subtle mark making.
The garment itself is influenced from muses such as Queen Elizabeth and inspirational places such as the Sacra Coeur in Paris. Focusing on the built up surface texture and decorative repeats and prints used upon the interior and garments of Queen Elizabeth the golden age.
Continuing with the method of shibori through out collection diagonal repeated strips have been stitched into folded habitat silk. Placement was experimented through out the garment fading in and out of colour through the tension and space of the stitch to change the movement and flow of the pattern. In this example the dark hem fades into the bottom half of the dress.
In order to emphasis the movement of the diagonal print I decided to use a dramatic but simple garment shape. Once again using the mannequin to alter the direction of the pattern considering the placement of the print. Folded on the bias to help cowl, a built in facing was added to finish of the neck with out interrupting the pattern. The print curves up one side of the dress and into the un symmetrical  built in sleeves. Contrasting against the diagonal strips and checked top section. I particularly like how the pattern is constantly changing and moving, the use of cowls and tucks help to distort the flow of the print, creating a rippling effect across the surface of the body. Placement of the print is used to indicate a change in direction, scale or movement with out the over constructing. The use of heavy construction with a busy print would be to much and overcomplicate the design. 
Subtle finishing details where added to the seams of the dress, double turning the edges and then overlapping and top stitching. In contrast to the cowl neck an unsymmetrical raised hem is added twisting the hem and creating a modern, sophisticated garment shape that reflects my target consumer. 
Although this garment has been particularly successful and is a key piece of the collection, as you can mix and match and layer it with alternative  garments. The Labour of the textile method is time consuming taking up to 8 hours to unpick. Extra care is needed when unpicking to avoid clicking or pulling the silk. From a more commercial perspective this print could be transformed into digital print for manufacturing companies. 




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