Developing and Making outfit 3 

Inspiration Board 

Construction of Vanners trousers 

centre front zip fastening and side pockets 

turned up double hem

open vent 

Construction of Top

Devore on satin 

Creating an interesting garment shapes through cowling, draping and tucking areas of the silhouette. 

gapped arm hole

cowled neck line on the bias to help drape 

Bra 

This was the first time I have ever made a Bra 

 I started with altering the pattern

Focusing on decorative surface texture the inspiration behind this outfit is Queen Elizabeths dramatic yellow ball gown worn in the movie, Elizabeth the golden age. The outfit captures the grand atmosphere and decorative/textural interiors. 

Developing images from Paris such as decorative tiled motifs contrasted with worn, sketched textures where experiment with through a variation of textile processes. In particular Devore, cross dying and discharge. In order to capture a dramatic surface print layering textures and patterns to create an over the top outfit.
Taking a more commercial approach the garments shapes themselves where partially influenced from brands such as All saints, focusing on my target consumer/market and developing key/signature garments and shapes. In this case drapes, tucks and cowls where used to distort the print, creating a unique, dramatic shape. Contrasting against the skinny cigarette trousers and under layered bra. Once again printing the fabric (top) and working out the pattern using a mannequin. This processes of production allowed me to add in key elements such as the gapes arm hole and continued seam. 
The top itself has been heavily processed through screen textile techniques, emphasising the hand touch element I believe is important to highlight through out my collection. An issue with in the industry I believe needs to be encouraged and used more. The sketched Devore pattern used on the top has been developed through mark making techniques, using a paint brush and paint to transfer the texture of the brush strokes onto fabric. This process of developing prints has been key through the collection and emphasis texture through been able to add ripples and speckled layers. The processes of Devore itself is particularly exciting as it contrasts two weights of fabric through burning away the natural element. Which has then been cross dyed using acid turquoise and procion black dye to create a subtle colour change, making the print appear more three dimensional. In order to add placement to the busy print I have used dip dying to draw the viewers gaze down the bottom of the garment, elongating the model. Re-working back into the pattern through discharge print, to built up surface texture and merge the dip dyed line. The change in pattern works well with the drape of the garment. It almost captures an ocean/weave rippling diagonally across the body.
As the top itself becomes quite fragile due to the burning and washing procedure behind Devore, extra care needed to be taken in order to stop holes appearing. This top has been hugely successful and is one of my favourite pieces from the collection due to the hand processes used and the distressed print captured.

Referring back to previous live briefs a geometric silk and lurex weaved fabric has been used in a bra and cigarette trousers. Contrasting against the flowing print on the top through different scales and directions. The print used on the trousers and bra is highly structured and decorative. Balancing out the loose, flowing print when worn. 

When constructing the trousers alternatives had to be made to the pattern such as the vent added into the hem of the trouser legs, as the fabric has little stretch. Pockets and a centre front fly and zip where also added to the trousers, finishing off with a hook and eye. When working out the pattern for the trouser manipulation techniques where used to pull in the width, a new and useful skill learnt. 

When constructing the bra boning was also added to create a sturdy structure that would hold up the strapless bra, making it practical. As this was the first time I had constructed a bra I particularly enjoyed working with new materials on various garment shapes.