Jason WU

Spring / Summer 2013 

A gothic yet classic collection made up from a mixture of sheer net and leather material, clearly constructed together to create an interesting pattern through construction. 

Highly influenced by the Newton retrospective this Spring/ Summer collection is very sleek. This leather and net detailed fitted dress sculpts to the body revealing the models womanly curves. It is bold and powerful constructed through curved panels and adding detail to the torso but creating a contrast in material, changing from black leather to transparent patterned netting. As I am looking at gothic architecture it is interesting to see how gothic and modern/classic have been worked together, although this has been successful I would like my own collection to be a bit more exciting and quirky. Using curved panels and seams is a simple way to change the garment shape/surface as well as colliding various materials together.

The lace netted trim around the hem exaggerates the flare of the dress as the contrast between the black and white acts as a highlighter. It adds decorative detailing moving from white leather to white sheer to black lace. The lace hem itself adds a unique touch to the finishing of the garment instead of using a basic construction method such as a turned up or rolled up hem. The shape of the garment works with the simple colour palette and detailing, however the black leather harness cuts of the flow of the garment, in order to change this it would be interesting to us curved panels and seam such as the curved leather wear the sheer fabric meets.

This garment uses arrange of different materials such as net, leather and layered sheer in order to create a collide in texture and material. Although this garment has a lot more going on on the surface area the colour scheme is still simple and contrast using black and nude. The overlaying off the two materials  works well to create a subtle pattern and is something that I will experiment with further through out my own work, overlaying patterns and fabric to see what interesting textures and prints can be made. Although I like the idea of colliding materials, textures and patterns. the change between the black leather and sheer net on the shoulders is to harsh overpowering the rest of the garment. 

Once again panels have been used to add constructive detailing, adding a pattern with a pattern.

I particularly like the detailing of this skirt, the checked surface gives it a three dimensional effect. The black leather itself exaggerate the surface depth as it reflects the light. A contrast is created through the nude and black colour theme instead of previous collections I have look at this designer uses a change in garment other then colliding multiple colour together on the same garment. This gives the collection a sophisticated and classic look. 

It would be interesting to add texture and depth to the surface of a garment in a simple style as this skirt, using construction as a method to add texture such as pleating or tucks.