Peter Pilotto 

Spring / Summer 2013

This collection by Pilotto focuses on kaleidoscope vibrant prints, using geometric shapes to build up layered repeat patterns. The colours consist of black, yellow, orange, red and royal blue. Creating a contrasting colour palette. The kaleidoscope prints are relatively similar to gothic architecture through the use of bold geometric shapes and arches to represent the models curves. The pattern itself has been printed using digital print a technique that could be brought through into my own collection. 

Many of the garments are inspired from traditional stained glass windows found in century old libarys, which is shown in this silk jacket and skirt, through the use of simple repeated shapes. The shapes are layered through block colours creating a blurred, sketched effect across the surface of the garment. This implies a sense of movement to the surface of the garment.  The use of different colours break up the print and divided the pattern. This has been used to create a symmetrical pattern across the garment surface. 

In comparison to the surface print the garment shape is very simple, this is something that could be pushed further in my own collection. Focusing on print but forming garment shapes that resemble the gothic architecture itself. 

  

This in proportion dress features cap sleeves and a synched waist to create a feminine silhouette, which is simple yet stylish and fun. The use of different material across the shoulder and sleeves of the dress allow the broad cap sleeves to be dramatic but delicate at the same time. 

In comparison to the previous print this pattern divides the top and bottom section of the dress using pattern and colour. The pattern itself is built up through simple mark making, running in lines of strips which cross over. 

The surface pattern on this garment is fun and vibrant, filled up with small repeated patterns. The layout of the print splits off into different sections creating a border around specific areas such as the shoulders, arms, waist as well as emphasizing movement in the bottom section of the dress through creating a pleated effect. 

The purple, red and white create a contrasting colour palette, that defines the print itself. From a distance this surface pattern almost seems floral I much prefer the geometric effect as it resembles gothic architecture, to control this effect the layout and placement of the pattern needs to be considered. Not over layers or cluttering the print so it does not blur to much and loose definition. 

This garment out of the collection is filled with a textured surface pattern created through various patterns collided together in sections and layers. Similar to the first garment there is a sense of symmetrical used indicating a in portion silhouette. 

The digital print itself reflects a stained glass effect through how various prints have been layered and placed together. through do this a blurred effect is captured a similar texture found on a stained glass window. Once again a boarded effect has been captured where the pattern divides off into different sections, this contrast the colours and pattern creating a exciting surface pattern.

This garment out of the collection is my personal favorite due to the contrast in pattern and colours and the layout of the pattern itself which moves and curves with the body. 

Similar to the previous dress this garment shape fits the silhouette and focuses on the print to indicate a sense of shape and direction, moving down the garment and curving around the hips and waist. The print itself is once again split off into sections however uses more sharp sturdy strips as a repeated pattern. focusing on gothic architecture this is how it could be represented through a repeated pattern, however it could be more dramatic and interesting to use construction to create these sharp strips using darts, panels or tucks. This will allow myself to have more freedom to focus and experiment with the print, building up the surface through small simple geometric shapes and mark making.

The repeated strips here elongate the models figure through creating a clear sense of direction. This is something to consider when designing my own collection as the garment shapes and print need to flow and work with each other in order to create a successful collection. Allow the border effect was successful in the previous garment the border cuffs are to harsh and block of the flow of the print. The colour palette itself is also to harsh and cluttered there needs to be more of a neutral contrast as the print itself is already bold.

I particularly like how this collection uses simple layers of colour and pattern to build up the surface pattern as it is very dramatic and powerful just as gothic architecture is. This is a effect i would like my own collection to grasp, possibly through various printing and dying techniques such as possibly digital print, shibori, and discharge printing. I would also like to experiment with various materials, colliding different weights to see what effects I can create.